New York City. Dec. 9, 2021. The Cultured Pearl Association of America (CPAA) has announced the U.S. winners of its 12th Annual International Pearl Design Competition (IPDC).

On Tuesday, Dec. 7, 2021, judges Jean Francois Bibet, workshop and production director at Cartier, and Patricia Faber, co-owner of Aaron Faber Gallery in Manhattan (whose store will show and offer for sale the winning entries and the finalists of Faber’s choice), inspected 26 live U.S. division finalists’ pieces in a private location in Manhattan. (There were 56 total U.S. submissions.) By the end of the day, 11 winners had been chosen across seven categories for the U.S. Division, as well as one Popularity Award winner, which emerged through a vote on the @pearlscpaa’s Instagram account.

 

Winners are as follows:

President’s Trophy. This top prize is given to the piece deemed the most beautiful and original design concept that is well made, celebrates pearls, and leaves a lasting impression of pearls as must-have gems.

Winner:

DNA Interchangeable earrings from Tariq Riaz of Tariq Riaz LLC. The DNA earrings are made in 18k rose gold and are inspired by the DNA silhouette. The removable drop part of the earrings features 96 hand-twisted wires set in 24 turntable bases to ensure the pair turn freely and change patterns. Some 100 Akoya pearls that are 4–4.5 mm are set on the gold wires, while one pair of stud earrings features 3.33 cts. t.w. emerald beads and 16 keshi pearls that are 2–5 mm in size. A second pair of studs features 6 mm Akoya pearls and 1.15 cts. t.w. turquoise beads.

 

Tie!

Luster Award. These winning pieces represent the evolution of best-selling pearl jewelry designs bearing covetable and marketable concepts with wide appeal for the marketplace.

Winners:

Nest earrings by Barbara Heinrich. The earrings are made in 18k yellow gold and feature two 11–12 mm high-luster freshwater keshi pearls and 0.22 ct. t.w. diamonds. The dimensions are 23 mm x 24 mm x 8 mm. Heinrich wanted to capture the spontaneity and lightness of the pencil lines in her sketch of the earrings, so she forged the gold wire in a way that mimicked the looseness of the drawing, giving the finished earrings a light look and feel.

Loie ring by Anne Baker. The ring is made in 18k yellow gold and features an 11 mm white South Sea pearl and a 10 mm Tahitian pearl with 0.80 ct. t.w. of VS-clarity diamonds. Loie is inspired by the iconic Serpentine dance photos of American actress Loïe Fuller. The design of this Moi et Toi ring highlights the beauty in contrasts.

 

Tie!

Orient Award. These winning pieces appeal to an emerging pearl jewelry collector—someone who has never before thought of wearing pearls—through attractive design, innovative use of pearls, and accessible prices.

Winners: 

Coin Pearl Amazon ring by Eve Streicker of Original Eve. This 18k recycled yellow gold ring features a coin-shape freshwater pearl with a sharp luster and rose overtones. The pearl’s U-shape form captures light and creates a rainbow effect, making this ring a one-of-a-kind beauty that allows the pearl to seemingly float on the hand. The sculptural band curves for comfort and tapers to counterbalance the pearl, while the prongs are leaf shape, a motif that is present throughout the Original Eve Amazon Collection. The freshwater pearl is 16.6 mm x 18.7 mm.

The Pearl Blossom ring by Anne Baker. The ring is made in 20k rose gold and features a 13 mm pink freshwater pearl with 0.77 ct. t.w. pink sapphires. The design is inspired by both the radiance of the sun and the playful joy of sunflowers. The sapphires complement the unique beauty of the pearl, which takes center stage and radiates like soft sunlight.

 

Visionary Award for Classic Styles. This winning piece is attractive, creative, and salable, championing a fresh look for an iconic pearl style—strands, studs, bracelets, or a ring—to help change the dated perception of pearls in the market.

Winner:

Corner Pearl Nacre ring by Melanie Georgacopoulos. The ring is made in 18k rose gold and has a 13 mm lavender freshwater pearl and custom-cut lavender mother-of-pearl. The mother-of-pearl perfectly matches the color of the pearl as if returning the pearl to its oyster. The piece acts as a miniature sculpture with jewelry elements and is beautiful both as an object and a jewel on the hand.

 

Tie!

Wedding Day Pearls. These winning pieces best capture what a contemporary bride might wear on her wedding day.

Winners: 

Exposed Pearl Nacre bangle by Melanie Georgacopoulos. This sculptural bangle is made in 18k white gold with white mother-of-pearl and a matching color 13 mm white South Sea pearl. The Nacre collection, of which this piece belongs, is important as it ties back to Melanie’s background in sculpture. The bangle stands alone as an enticing object yet can also be worn effortlessly on the wrist. 

Celine 3.0” Tahitian Pearl Dagger earrings by Rosa van Parys. The hoops and removable Dagger drops are made in 18k white and black gold and feature a pair of silver-blue AA quality 9 mm Tahitian pearls with 2.94 cts. t.w. diamonds. The daggers are inspired by icicles created in winter and have been designed for the style-forward woman. Balance, symmetry, and composition are all driving factors behind the brand’s point of view, allowing pieces to be unique, elegant, edgy, statement-worthy, and able to be worn in both casual and upscale scenarios. Dagger drops can also be worn as pendants with other necklaces in the collection.

 

Fashion Award. This winning piece features a creative compilation of materials fashioned into a youthful, high-fashion, and original pearl jewelry design that looks as if it came straight from a Paris runway.

Winner:

Pearl Swag bracelet by Imperial Pearl. The bracelet is made in 14k yellow gold and features Akoya pearls ranging in size from 5.5 mm to 6.5 mm with 1.545 cts. t.w. diamonds. The inspiration speaks to the design sensibility of today’s woman, which includes softness, femininity, and layers, as the cuff gives the illusion of multiple bracelets. The juxtaposition of structured rows of fixed pearls, the solid framework of gold and diamonds, and a movable pearl swag that contrasts steadiness and fluid movement, illustrates how these two qualities can beautifully commingle on the wrist of the tenacious but sensitive woman.

 

Tie!

Spotlight Award—Natural-Color Blue Akoya Pearls. This category focuses on designs where 75 percent of the piece features one type of pearl—the natural-color blue Akoya pearl. These winning pieces should make viewers think about natural-color blue Akoya pearls in a way that is fresh and modern, challenges the standard of designs that feature it, and entices a non-pearl-lover to start collecting.

Winners:

Blue Wave ring by Paul Klecka. The ring is made in sterling silver and 950 platinum and features a baroque natural-color blue Akoya pearl and diamonds. The design inspiration is that of a solitary blue pearl riding the gentle waves of softly polished silver that caress the hand, riding over one finger, around the next, and continuing over the last finger. Clusters of diamonds in platinum form the crests of the wave as they curl back to salute the pearl, balanced on the breaking edge of the wave forms. The neutral colors of silver and platinum and their undulating forms allow the pearl to be the compelling focus of the ring.

Blue Akoya Pearl necklace with pendants by Lauren Chisholm. Necklace in 14k and 18k yellow gold and knotted silk has 7.5 mm–7.9 mm natural-color blue Akoyas, a cream-color Akoya, a 10.4–10.6 mm natural-color blue Akoya and a 11.2–13.3 mm white South Sea pearl as charm pendants, hand-carved starburst motifs, and a charm holder clasp. The easy-to-wear design highlights the luminous strand of blue Akoya pearls, while the starburst symbol represents joy and light. The clasp snaps open and closed, allowing charms to be added as desired.

Additionally, a Popularity Award vote for U.S. participants took place on Instagram within a 24-hour period. The winner is Marie Fauvel Lebourgeois of LEBOURGEOIS for her bijOO convertible pearl ring. Her piece secured the most ‘likes’—250—amongst all finalists posted.

 

Honorable mentions for the U.S. Division include the other finalists:

Bleu Bebe necklace by Elizabeth Dilly Kirby of Elizabeth Blair Fine Jewelry

Convertible Fedora Hat earrings by Cynthia Pischdotshian of Cynthia Britt Jewelry

Sky Blue Akoya Pearl necklace by Jane Bohan

Floating Pearl Circle ring by Brenda Smith

Sea Creature brooch by Barbara Heinrich

Pink Palace earrings by Heath London

Spring Forward earrings by Heath London

Abacus South Sea pearl earrings by Nan Fusco

Sting Ray brooch by Alishan Halebian of Alishan

Double Finger ring by Dennis deJonghe of Dennis deJonghe Originals

Tops and Drops Convertible earrings and pendant necklace by Amy Hudon

Ombre Wave earrings with chocolate Tahitian pearls by Pamela Froman

Modern Mobiles earrings by Assael

Hinged earrings by Assael

 

Pieces that will go on display and sale at the Aaron Faber Gallery in New York City include:

DNA Interchangeable earrings from Tariq Riaz

Nest earrings by Barbara Heinrich

Loie ring by Anne Baker

Coin Pearl Amazon ring by Eve Streicker of Original Eve

The Pearl Blossom ring by Anne Baker

Corner Pearl Nacre ring by Melanie Georgacopoulos

Exposed Pearl Nacre bangle by Melanie Georgacopoulos

Celine 3.0” Tahitian Pearl Dagger earrings by Rosa van Parys

Pearl Swag bracelet by Imperial Pearl

Blue Wave ring by Paul Klecka

Blue Akoya Pearl necklace with pendants by Lauren Chisholm

Bleu Bebe necklace by Elizabeth Dilly Kirby of Elizabeth Blair Fine Jewelry

Floating Pearl Circle ring by Brenda Smith

Sea Creature brooch by Barbara Heinrich

Abacus South Sea pearl earrings by Nan Fusco

Sting Ray brooch by Alishan Halebian of Alishan Jewelry

Double Finger ring by Dennis deJonghe of Dennis deJonghe Originals

Tops and Drops Convertible earrings and pendant necklace by Amy Hudon

Ombre Wave earrings with chocolate Tahitian pearls by Pamela Froman

Modern Mobiles earrings by Assael

Hinged earrings by Assael

 

Pieces not chosen for the display and sale will be shipped back to their owners. 

 

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CPAA is a nonprofit founded in 1957. The group comprises the finest manufacturers, wholesalers, dealers, and suppliers of cultured pearls in the United States, and its goals are to improve retail marketability of pearls and cultivate demand among consumers. Through promotion, education, public relations, and unwavering commitment to the category, CPAA aims to inspire an authentic passion for all cultured pearl varieties. For more information about becoming a certified pearl expert, please visit PearlsAsOne.org. To learn more about the Cultured Pearl Association of America, please visit CPAA.org.